How to Make Sailboat Deck Fittings Black Again

Do-It-Yourself: How to Bottom Paint Your Boat

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By Tom Brunt and Brian Gordon, Last updated: 2/15/2021

If yous shop your boat in the h2o at least part of the year, keeping the hull free of marine growth with one or more coats of quality antifouling pigment is critical to keep it performing its best—and for reducing fuel costs. This preventative maintenance task should be at the superlative of your list. A clean hull is safety, fast and efficient—while a fouled lesser will reduce your boat's speed, maneuverability and cost you more than at the fuel dock.

This article volition help you select the right bottom paint to keep your gunkhole'due south hull free of marine growth and also help you with hull preparation and paint application. Knowing which products to select and how to use them can salvage y'all hundreds of dollars over the toll of paying a yard to do the piece of work.

Do Your Homework

Before starting, we suggest you bone up on your bottom painting by first reading our West Advisor Height Ten Antifouling Paint Buying Questions. Then, depending on the brand of antifouling paint y'all select, take a look at one of these painting guides: Due west Marine Boater's Painting Guide or the Interlux Painting Guide. If y'all plan on painting over an existing coat of bottom pigment, the pigment you select must be compatible with the paint you choose. To avoid problems, cheque the Interlux Antifouling Paint Compatibility Nautical chart or the Pettit Antifouling Paint Compatibility Chart.

Make a List

If the chore will be confined to applying bottom pigment (no barrier glaze), you volition need the following tools and supplies:

• Bottom paint of your selection
• Appropriate thinner and solvents
• Paint tray, liner, roller frame, solvent-resistant roller
• Fineline and Bluish masking record
• 2" and iv" Scrap Paint Brushes for cut-in
• Drib cloth for spills
• Rags and tack cloths
• Paint buckets and stirring sticks
• Power drill driven paint mixing tool
• Disc or orbital sander, electric or air driven
• 80-grit sanding discs
• Painter'south suit with hood
• Foot covers
• Goggles
• Organic vapor dust mask and/or (for solvent based paints) respirator
• Gloves

Programme Ahead

You tin can't modify the weather condition, simply y'all tin selection a favorable time when the weather are proficient. Manufacturers say it's best to apply pigment when temperatures are in the 50°–85°F range and humidity is beneath 65%. If you don't have access to a heated shed, plan to exercise the job when conditions in your area are closest to these parameters.

When hauled out for a bottom job, allow extra time for chores such as disassembling and lubricating seacocks, replacing worn transducers and inspecting rudder bearings. Yous may desire to pull and inspect the propeller shaft and bearings.

Be Patient

You shouldn't rush pigment jobs, especially when you are working in open air. Sometimes the weather does not cooperate. It may exist besides cold, as well hot, also humid, or too windy to start a task. In that case nosotros recommend you lot wait until conditions ameliorate. The results will be worth the extra time. Not only will the coat of paint look better, it volition deliver better antifouling performance and it will concluding longer.

Paint Selection

Antiflouling paint prevents marine organisms such every bit barnacles and zebra mussels, weeds, slime and algae from attaching themselves to the hull. Most antifouling paints utilise the dissipation of metallic as a toxic biocide (on the hull'due south surface and side by side to the hull in the water) to foreclose these bothersome critters from adhering.

Antifouling pigment choices tend to be regional, with boaters in the Not bad Lakes, Pacific Coast, Southeast, Gulf Declension and other areas choosing similarly to their neighbors in the local marina. Using the aforementioned paint as your neighbour might work well for yous, however y'all should also consider how you lot employ your boat and the type of pigment you applied in the by, since in that location can exist compatibility problems between dissimilar formulations. In general, softer paints can exist applied over harder paints just not vice-versa; vinyl paints should only be practical over vinyl paints. There are exceptions all the same, and so it's always best to consult a compatibility chart.

Copolymer ablative paints enable yous to paint in the autumn and launch in the spring!

If you use your boat oftentimes, a copolymer ablative paint might be for yous. These paints offer several advantages over difficult modified epoxy paints. First, they release their biocide at a constantly controlled rate as they habiliment away or "ablate", much like a bar of soap. This feature reduces pigment build-upward and the demand for sanding at haulouts. The second advantage is that in general, different hard modified epoxy paints, copolymer-ablative paints do not lose their antifouling ability when exposed to air; which ways that prior to winter storage, y'all can paint your boat and exist ready to launch in the spring. (Light sanding or scrubbing may be necessary prior to launch.) This is a big time-saver for those living in northern climates. Another advantage of copolymer ablative paints is that although they are loaded with less copper compared to modified epoxy paints, controlled polishing enables them to use their copper content more efficiently.

Copolymer paints, such as West Marine PCA Gold, Interlux MicronCSC and Micron Extra, offering true multi-season protection, lasting as long equally there is a reasonable blanket thickness. Because they expose new biocide until the coating is worn completely away, additional coats add to their longevity. Pettit Hydrocoat offers the added benefit of beingness a water-based production with no solvents, an environmental plus, and so there are fewer fumes to protect yourself from and easier make clean-up using merely water.

Do you want bright colors?

If yous want your bottom pigment to really dazzle, use i that contains white copper (cuprous thiocyanate), zinc or ECONEA® as the biocide. White copper is clean white in color and used in brightly colored paints such as Pettit's Vivid and Interlux Trilux 33. White copper formulations require 50% less copper than heavier conventional antifouling paint formulated with dark cuprous oxide. White copper produces the brightest colors, whitest whites and blackest blacks.

Paints that contain ECONEA as the biocide are another choice. ECONEA is a metal-free biocide that, depending on the pigment formulation, can exist as effective as cuprous oxide at about one tenth the concentration in pigment by weight. This results in a brighter range of colors compared to darker cuprous oxide based paints. See more most ECONEA below.

Hard Modified Epoxy Paint

If you keep your boat in the h2o yr round, yous are almost likely a candidate for a hard, high-copper-content modified epoxy paint that prevents growth by leaching biocides upon contact with water. Contact leaching pigment releases the biocide at a steadily decreasing rate, leaving a difficult coating of the original thickness at season's end. Higher copper content generally means better performance in this paint blazon.

Modified epoxy paints adhere tenaciously to near surfaces, and can be practical over about types of paints. Since modified epoxy paints (unless scrubbed often past a diver) do not wear abroad, build-upwards volition occur with each new glaze and somewhen your hull will demand to have the blanket stripped.

We used bluish Pettit Trinidad SR on our xxx' Newport sailboat, kept in a year-round marina, and had slap-up results with the production. It has nearly 60% copper, and afterwards 2 years nosotros expect at least another year of service in our moderate-fouling environment, with moderate scrubbing by a diver required every two months. Interlux Ultra is a like high-copper pigment.

Modified epoxy paints with a relatively low pct of copper are the economy single-season choice if you're in the Northeast or other regions where you dry-shop your gunkhole in winter and don't mind having to repaint in the spring. Two affordable and popular modified epoxies are West Marine BottomShield and Interlux Fiberglass Bottomkote NT, which are budget choices compared to more than sophisticated ablative paints or loftier-copper modified epoxies. They offer hard, durable finishes with between 25% and 28% copper content.

Composite Copper Technology (CCT)

These are relatively new formulations that supplant the folder of traditional cuprous oxide in a modified epoxy paint with environmentally friendly matrix of silica, reducing the copper footprint by upwardly to xl%. These formulations use less copper more efficiently compared to modified epoxy paints. An example is West Marine CPP Ablative Antifouling Paint with Blended Copper Engineering.

Thin-film Paints

Freshwater locations similar the Great Lakes are plagued primarily by algae, and thin film paints such equally VC 17m Extra and are a good selection for these environments. They offer a super-slick PTFE stop to go along growth from attaching to the hull, in add-on to one or more than biocides. They dry out almost instantly, so you can quickly use several coats and launch almost immediately. Because they are then thin, they must be applied with either a solvent-resistant foam roller cover or by spray with an airless sprayer. Racing sailboats used in freshwater are an especially practiced candidate for these paints.

Sloughing and Vinyl Paints

There are two other types of paints we'll mention. Neither is as popular as today'southward modified epoxies and ablatives, but yous should still know virtually them, especially if you happen to buy a boat with either type on the hull. Soft or "sloughing" paints used to be very popular amidst cruising sailors in northern climates because they are very economical and concluding for a little longer than a season. Like ablative paints, sloughing antifoulings wearable away as the boat moves, and then the more ofttimes the boat is used and the faster it goes, the quicker the paint wears off. Sloughing paints are very soft, so few paints tin be applied over them.

Vinyl-based paints are slick, difficult paints that can be burnished to provide a smooth surface preferred by owners of performance boats. Dissimilar sparse-motion picture paints, vinyl paints like VC Offshore can be used in salt-water, although their antifouling effectiveness is inferior to high-quality modified epoxies and ablatives. Vinyl-based paints tin merely be practical over an existing vinyl paint. Very thorough sanding is required to achieve a expert bond when painting over vinyl coatings with other types of lesser paint.

Paint for Aluminum and Underwater Metals

Never apply an antifouling paint that contains cuprous oxide on an aluminum hull or outdrive. Doing so volition effect in galvanic corrosion that will damage or even destroy the hull. Instead, select an aluminum-prophylactic antifouling paint that contains a compound of zinc, cuprous thiocyanate, or a non-metallic agent, such every bit ECONEA™ as the biocide. Examples includeVivid (cuprous thiocyanate),Trilux 33 (cuprous thiocyanate),Alumaspray Plus (zinc pyrithione) andHydrocoat ECO (ECONEA).

For painting underwater metals, Propspeed has emerged as ane of the nearly popular formulations on the market today. Propspeed contains no biocide at all. Instead, it is a super-slick coating that easily sheds marine growth. Propspeed is used on underwater metals, including props, struts, shafts and keel coolers.

Where Slime Is a Problem

The big news here is that the popular anti-slime additive Irgarol is, after an absence of several years, dorsum! Irgarol disrupts photosynthesis in plants, which makes information technology an effective additive for decision-making slime and preventing that ubiquitous waterline "beard".Micron Extra by Interlux is an example of this type of paint. Other choices include paints boosted with the anti-slime biocide zinc pyrithione, too chosen zinc omadine.

More About ECONEA

As restrictions on copper-based antifouling paints increase, a pharmaceutical alternative has emerged. The culling biocide at present employed in an increasing number of paints is ECONEA™, which is a metal-costless antifouling agent developed by a pharmaceutical company. Depending on the paint formulation, ECONEA can be as effective every bit cuprous oxide at near one tenth the concentration in paint by weight. ECONEA-based paints like Interlux'south Pacifica Plus and Pettit's Ultima ECO are now available at a competitive price.

Lesser Prep

Good training and priming are the basis for whatever paint chore and antifouling paints are no dissimilar. Solid prep ensures good adhesion and better performance over time.

If you are painting a new boat for the offset time, wipe down the entire bottom with a good solvent launder such as Interlux 202 or Pettit Dewaxer to get rid of all mold release agents from the manufacturing plant. To avoid just spreading the mold release agent over the hull, turn your cloth frequently and supplant often with a clean cloth. Y'all can then lightly sand the hull with 120-dust sandpaper or utilise a no sand primer instead, such as Interlux Fiberglass No-Sand Primer or Pettit Sandless Primer.

Dealing With Former Pigment

However, since most of us will be recoating over a previously painted bottom, we will need to make sure the surface is prepped for another coat. Cheque the bottom paint compatibility chart beneath to encounter if the pigment you plan to use is compatible with what's on your boat at present. If old paint must be removed because information technology'south incompatible or too deteriorated to overcoat, exist sure to have Aqua-Strip™, Gear up-Strip® or other stripper system or other fabric on mitt.

If the old paint is known and in good shape: Remove onetime loose paint, dirt, grease, and marine growth with a power washer, brush or scraper. Wipe down with solvent wash. Sand with eighty-dust paper. Exercise caution to avert sanding through a bulwark glaze that may have been applied to prevent fiberglass blistering or damaging the gelcoat of the hull. Repeat solvent wash. Make clean with the thinner recommended by your paint manufacturer. If you take to apply gelcoat blister protection, follow your manufacturer'south guidelines for surface and tie coat priming before you lot proceed with the paint awarding. If blister protection is not needed, yous can apply pigment directly to the sanded surface or the fiberglass.

If the old pigment is unknown and in good shape: Clean, remove loose paint, sand (fourscore-grit paper) and rinse with water. Apply the recommended number of coats of tie coat primer such as Interlux Primocon or Pettit 6627 to ensure optimum pigment adhesion. Then just apply the antifouling of your choice following the manufacturer'southward instructions. Some glace Teflon paints such every bit the Interlux VC Offshore serial may need to be removed before applying an incompatible paint.

If the old pigment is unknown and in bad shape: Remove the erstwhile coats of antifouling paint. Employ paint remover that is compatible with the material of your hull. Yous may accept to employ the pigment remover several times to get rid of all the layers. If you lot are a racer or a stickler for a super-smooth bottom, the dreaded sanding longboard may accept to come out. Once the paint is stripped, check for impairment to the barrier glaze that provides cicatrice protection (if there is i) and patch it where necessary. If the hull does not accept an epoxy barrier coat this is a skillful time to consider applying this protection. And so proceed with painting.

Cleaning a Muddy Hull

Ability-washing works great to remove whatever remaining dirt or light fouling. For heavier fouling, use a strong acid-based bottom cleaner such every bit MaryKate's On-Off. Exist certain to wearable eye protection, a good respirator and rubber gloves, as the cleaner is very caustic.

Once the surface has dried completely, we are gear up to sand. Sanding is necessary to give the one-time surface some "tooth" to allow the fresh paint to mechanically adhere. Bottom paints are toxic by nature and well-nigh are solvent based, and so yous should ever try to cover exposed skin, shield your optics and wear a respirator to avert breathing toxic fumes. Nosotros recommend outfitting yourself with a disposable coverall suit, gloves, high quality goggles and a dual-cartridge respirator. At present go to work!

First, lay out a big tarp or dropcloth to cover the entire piece of work area. Knock off whatever loose paint with a scraper and, using either a sanding block or a dustless DA sander, lightly sand the entire bottom with 80-grit sandpaper. Spend a fiddling extra time on whatsoever high or uneven areas. Endeavour to achieve every bit smoothen of a surface as possible to minimize underwater elevate. Work around transducers, prop shaft struts and outdrives. When y'all accept finished sanding, wipe down the surface with a rag and some solvent launder.

Masking Off Borders

Adjacent, select a masking record that'south right for the job. In that location are some things to keep in mind when selecting a tape. General purpose tapes are but designed to be left on a surface for 24 hours or less, unless you lot want a lengthy chore of trying to remove the tape! Select a "long-mask" tape for bottom painting, particularly when you'll be applying multiple coats. 3M'due south 2090 Scotch Blueish Painter'due south Tape is a good choice because it's UV-stable and can be left on for up to 60 days. Try to tape as close to the existing bootstripe every bit possible. Start from a natural suspension point in the line and describe the tape every i.5' to 2' for a polish, even edge. Be sure to tape around transducers, prop shaft struts, through-hulls and any other metal parts, equally the copper in the paint will react with the other metals and cause galvanic corrosion. 3M's Fineline tape is the best choice for when you are ready to re-pigment the bootstripe (or for any other painting task where you want the cleanest possible paint line).

Applying the Paint

You're at present fix to start painting. Select the right paint accessories to match the blazon of paint you lot are applying. Spraying is not recommended for do-it-yourselfers as it involves serious toxic hazards. Rolling works best for most bottom paint applications, and a 3/8" nap solvent-resistant roller comprehend is the best match for about bottom paints. Don't be tempted to effort and use household-variety roller covers, brushes, or tray liners. Solvents used in bottom paints are much "hotter" than latex or oil-based household paints and will probable dissolve these applicators. (Nosotros've tried this and can speak from messy experience hither!)

Thin-film paints such as VC-17m are likewise runny for such a heavy nap and are applied best either by rolling using a solvent-resistant foam roller comprehend or by spray with an airless sprayer. Make sure to get a few sizes of chip brushes to cutting out around the masked areas and at the waterline.

Pigment manufacturers' instructions requite single-coat square foot coverage and recommend the number of coats needed for optimum protection. Don't attempt to economize on pigment either by thinning it excessively (nearly bottom paints are applied unthinned) or by spreading it likewise sparse.

Ablative paints in particular must be thickly applied. Apply extra coats in areas of turbulence such as the bow, rudder and leading border of the keel. With copolymer and ablative paints, if you apply a unlike color for the base of operations glaze, you'll know information technology's fourth dimension to recoat when it begins to show through. Use the pigment manufacturer's coverage chart for an educated guess as to how much paint you'll demand to do the job. Get some special transducer antifouling paint to touch up whatever underwater transducers.

Have the paint shaken just prior to application. This will brand stirring the copper dorsum into solution much easier, because it will settle into a thick mass at the bottom of the tin, making stirring a real job. After thoroughly stirring the pigment, pour into the paint tray and roll the paint evenly from one end of the boat to the other.

A Give-and-take About Timing

As you lot choose your pigment and schedule your haulout, consider how much drying time you should allow between coats and how long the new pigment tin exist left out of the water. Drying time betwixt coats can vary from ten minutes for Teflon-based VC-17m to a 16-hour (or overnight) minimum for Trilux 33. For proper planning it is important to check the manufacturer's recommendation in accelerate, both for the drying fourth dimension and for the recommended number of coats. For instance, West Marine'southward well-nigh popular modified epoxy paint, BottomShield, has a drying time of four to six hours, and a maximum of 60 days earlier relaunch. Copolymer ablative paints have minimum overcoating times, and no maximum out-of-water fourth dimension. Copolymers are a good selection for trailerable boats that demand antifouling protection while in the water, simply besides spend time on the difficult. Recoat following manufacturer recommendations regarding overcoating times, which can vary based on temperature.

Once the pigment is dry, remove all masking tape and clean up the surface area. Be sure to properly dispose of the old paint and whatever solvents used for clean up. If your gunkhole is on jack stands or a cradle, painting under pads can be tricky. Depending on the drying time for the pigment, you may be able to paint nether the pads or bunks when the boat is on the Travel-lift for launch. Check with your yard. Some paints will dry adequately in the curt fourth dimension information technology'southward "in the air".

For a detailed word of types of antifouling pigment, see our Westward Advisor video with Chuck Hawley below.

Final Thoughts

Completing each of the key steps for painting your boat's bottom is easy with the right knowledge base. Nosotros hope this Counselor and our companion video have helped answer your questions and helped yous detect the best products to exercise the job correct the first time. Finally, for adjacent year, consider this idea: spring weather can be unpredictable, and haul-out schedules in the yard are crowded. At season'due south finish, when you booty out for the winter, paint the hull bottom so yous'll be ready to launch in the spring, whatever the weather. Note that this only applies if you use a multi-season ablative type paint. Skillful luck!

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Source: https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/DIY-Bottom-Painting

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